If the engine won't turn over, the problem is between the battery and the starter. The sound you get when you turn the key narrows it down before you touch a tool. This guide walks the no-crank branch from the main car-won't-start guide: what each sound means, how to test it, and what the fix costs. If the engine cranks but won't fire, you want the other branch instead.
Read the sound
One loud single click, lights dim hard. The starter solenoid is pulling in but there isn't enough current to spin the motor — usually a weak/dead battery or a corroded cable. Sometimes a failed starter.
Rapid machine-gun clicking. Classic low-battery signature: the solenoid chatters because voltage collapses the moment it draws current. Charge or jump and retest.
Nothing at all, no click. No power reaching the starter circuit: a fully dead battery, a broken main connection, a bad ignition switch, or a safety switch (neutral-safety on autos, clutch switch on manuals) that is open.
Single click but battery and cables are good. Points to the starter motor or solenoid itself.
Test it in order
Battery voltage at rest. A healthy battery reads about 12.6 V. Below ~12.2 V it's discharged; test and load-test the battery before blaming the starter.
Voltage while cranking. Watch battery voltage as a helper turns the key. If it plummets below ~9.6 V, the battery is weak. If it stays up but the starter won't spin, the battery is fine — look downstream.
Jump-start test. If a jump starts it immediately, the battery or charging system is the issue — then confirm the alternator is recharging it.
Wiggle and clean connections. Corroded or loose battery terminals and grounds cause both no-crank and clicking. Clean to bare metal and retest.
Tap test. With everything else good, lightly tapping the starter while a helper cranks can briefly free a worn starter — a strong hint the starter is failing.
If the battery keeps dying overnight, the battery itself may be fine — run a parasitic-draw test to find what's draining it.
Repair cost (2026 US ranges)
US independent shop at about $110–$160/hour plus parts. Planning figures, not a quote.
Repair
Shop (parts + labor)
DIY parts
Car battery
$150–$350
$100–$300
Battery cables / terminals
$80–$300
$20–$120
Starter motor
$350–$800
$120–$400
Ignition switch
$150–$450
$40–$200
Neutral-safety / range switch
$150–$400
$40–$200
Alternator (if battery keeps dying)
$400–$900
$120–$450
Diagnosis
$100–$200
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FAQ
Is a single click the starter or the battery?
Most often a weak battery or corroded connection. Only after the battery load-tests good and holds voltage while cranking should you suspect the starter.
The jump start worked — am I fixed?
Not necessarily. A jump proves the battery was low. Test the battery and the alternator to find out whether the battery is worn out or something is draining or not charging it.
How much is a starter replacement?
Typically $350–$800 at a shop depending on how buried the starter is; parts alone run $120–$400 if you do it yourself.
General diagnostic information for US-market vehicles, not a substitute for a hands-on inspection. Costs are 2026 ballpark ranges for planning only.