P0367 is one of those codes that sounds scary, but with a little guidance you can understand what’s going on and decide what to do next. This code points to a problem with a camshaft position sensor circuit, specifically the “B” sensor on Bank 1, and usually indicates a low or weak signal. That can affect ignition timing, fuel injection, and overall drivability. In this guide, you’ll learn what P0367 means, common causes, symptoms to watch for, how a mechanic diagnoses it, and what repairs and costs you can expect.
What Does P0367 Mean?
P0367 is an OBD-II diagnostic trouble code that stands for “Camshaft Position Sensor ‘B’ Circuit Low (Bank 1).” In plain language, your engine control unit (ECU) is seeing a signal from the Bank 1 camshaft position sensor “B” that is lower than expected, intermittent, or out of range.
Bank 1 is the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1. The “B” sensor usually refers to the exhaust cam sensor on dual overhead cam (DOHC) engines, or a secondary cam sensor on engines with multiple cam sensors per bank. When the ECU can’t trust that signal, it may struggle to control timing and fuel delivery correctly.
Quick Reference
- Code: P0367
- Definition: Camshaft Position Sensor “B” Circuit Low (Bank 1)
- Main area: Camshaft sensor, wiring, or ECU input
- Severity: Moderate; can lead to drivability issues
- Typical fix: Sensor replacement or wiring repair
Real-World Example / Field Notes
In the shop, P0367 often shows up on vehicles that have been running fine, then suddenly start with a long crank, stumble, or rough idle. A common pattern: the owner reports it runs worse when hot or after a long drive. I’ll hook up the scan tool, see P0367 stored with maybe a misfire code or two, and look at the camshaft and crankshaft correlation data. Many times, I find a cam sensor with internal failure or a harness that’s oil-soaked and brittle. Replacing the sensor and repairing the wiring usually restores smooth operation and clears the code for good.
Symptoms of P0367
- Check engine light on: The MIL (check engine light) will usually illuminate and store P0367.
- Hard starting: You may notice extended cranking before the engine fires, especially when hot.
- Rough idle: The engine can idle unevenly, sometimes feeling like it wants to stall.
- Loss of power: Acceleration may feel weak or inconsistent, especially at low RPM.
- Engine hesitation: You might feel a stumble or hesitation when you step on the throttle.
- Poor fuel economy: Incorrect timing can cause increased fuel consumption.
- Occasional stalling: In more severe cases, the engine can stall while idling or coming to a stop.
Common Causes of P0367
Most Common Causes
- Failed camshaft position sensor “B” (Bank 1): Internal electronic failure or sensor wear is the number one cause. Heat, vibration, and oil contamination break them down over time.
- Damaged wiring to the sensor: Chafed, pinched, or oil-soaked wires can cause a low or intermittent signal. Corrosion at the connector is also very common.
- Poor electrical connection: Loose, bent, or corroded pins at the cam sensor connector or ECU connector can drop the signal voltage.
- Incorrect sensor installation: After engine work, a sensor that isn’t seated fully or is spaced too far from the tone ring/reluctor can cause a weak signal.
Less Common Causes
- Damaged reluctor wheel / tone ring: A cracked, bent, or dirty camshaft reluctor can distort the signal the sensor reads.
- Oil contamination inside connector: Engine oil wicking up the harness into the connector can interfere with the signal.
- Short to ground or reference voltage issues: Problems in the 5V reference or ground circuits can cause the ECU to see a low cam signal.
- ECU (PCM) internal fault: Very rare, but a failing ECU input circuit can misread a good sensor as low.
- Previous incorrect repairs or aftermarket parts: Cheap, low-quality cam sensors sometimes fail right out of the box or provide a weak signal.
Diagnosis: Step-by-Step Guide
To diagnose P0367 correctly, you’ll want a basic OBD-II scan tool (a bi-directional or enhanced scan tool is better), a digital multimeter, and ideally a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle. A lab scope is a bonus for viewing the actual cam sensor waveform, but not mandatory for most DIYers.
- Confirm the code and check for companions. Scan the vehicle and note all stored and pending codes. Look for related cam, crank, or misfire codes (like P0340, P0365, P0016). This helps you see the bigger picture.
- Check freeze frame data. Look at engine RPM, coolant temperature, and load when P0367 set. If it happens hot or at a specific RPM, that’s a clue to a heat-related or vibration-related issue.
- Visual inspection of sensor and wiring. Locate the Bank 1 “B” camshaft sensor (often near the exhaust cam or rear of the cylinder head). Inspect the connector and harness for broken insulation, rubbing on brackets, oil saturation, or obvious damage.
- Inspect and clean the connector. Unplug the sensor and check for bent pins, corrosion, or oil inside the connector. Clean with electrical contact cleaner and let dry. Reseat the connector firmly.
- Check power, ground, and signal circuits. Using a wiring diagram, back-probe the sensor connector with the key on. Verify the 5V reference (or specified voltage), solid ground, and continuity on the signal wire. A missing 5V or bad ground points to wiring or ECU issues.
- Measure sensor resistance (if applicable). With the sensor unplugged and engine off, use a multimeter to measure resistance across the sensor terminals. Compare to factory specs. An open circuit or wildly out-of-spec reading usually means a bad sensor.
- Monitor live data. On the scan tool, look at camshaft position or cam/crank sync data while cranking and running. If the crank signal looks good but the cam signal is flat or erratic, that points strongly to the cam sensor or its circuit.
- Wiggle test the harness. With the engine idling and live data displayed, gently move the harness and connector. If the engine stumbles or the cam signal drops out, you’ve likely found a wiring or connector fault.
- Inspect the reluctor/tone ring. If accessible, inspect the camshaft reluctor for damage, missing teeth, or heavy debris. On some engines this requires removing a valve cover.
- Substitute a known-good sensor. If power, ground, and wiring check out but the signal remains low or erratic, replacing the cam sensor with a quality OEM or reputable aftermarket unit is the next logical step.
Pro tip: On many vehicles you can use Mode $06 data to see misfire counts and cam/crank correlation test results. If those values are marginal but not yet setting multiple codes, it’s an early warning that your cam sensor or timing components are starting to fail.
Possible Fixes & Repair Costs
Most P0367 repairs are straightforward once you pinpoint the cause. The most common fix is replacing the Bank 1 “B” camshaft position sensor and clearing the code. If the wiring or connector is damaged, you may need to repair or replace a section of harness. In rare cases, ECU replacement or timing component work is required.
- Replace camshaft position sensor “B” (Bank 1): Parts typically $40–$180, labor $60–$200 depending on access. Many are easy to reach; some require intake or cover removal.
- Repair wiring or connector: Harness repair can range from $50–$300 depending on how deep the damage is and whether the harness needs to be removed or rebuilt.
- Clean and secure connectors: Often just labor; $50–$120 if done as part of diagnosis.
- Reluctor or timing component repair: If the cam tone ring or timing components are damaged, costs can jump to $400–$1,200+ due to labor-intensive disassembly.
- ECU replacement/programming: Rare; generally $500–$1,500 including programming.
Overall, typical P0367 repairs fall in the $150–$450 range when it’s just the sensor and minor wiring. Costs go up with difficult access, dealer-only parts, or if timing components are involved.
Can I Still Drive With P0367?
In many cases you can still drive with P0367 for a short period, especially if the engine runs relatively smoothly and the only obvious issue is the check engine light. However, it’s not something you should ignore for long. A bad cam signal can cause misfires, poor fuel economy, and unpredictable performance. In the worst case, the engine may stall at idle or while driving, which is a safety concern. If drivability is noticeably worse, limit driving and get it checked as soon as possible.
What Happens If You Ignore P0367?
If you ignore P0367, the engine may run increasingly rough as the sensor or wiring deteriorates. Misfires can damage the catalytic converter over time, and repeated stalling or hard starting can leave you stranded. You also risk masking new problems because the check engine light is already on. Addressing P0367 early usually keeps the repair simple and less expensive.
Need wiring diagrams and factory-style repair steps?
Powertrain faults often require exact wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, and guided test steps. A repair manual can help you confirm the cause before replacing parts.
Related Sensor Camshaft Codes
Compare nearby sensor camshaft trouble codes with similar definitions, fault patterns, and diagnostic paths.
- P0392 – Camshaft Position Sensor “B” Circuit Low Bank 2
- P0337 – Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Low
- P0387 – Crankshaft Position Sensor “B” Circuit Low
- P0807 – Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low
- P2962 – Intake Air Metering Control Valve Position Sensor Circuit Low
- P2615 – Camshaft Position Signal Output Circuit Low
Key Takeaways
- P0367 means the ECU is seeing a low or weak signal from the Bank 1 “B” camshaft position sensor.
- Most issues are caused by a failing sensor, damaged wiring, or poor electrical connections.
- Symptoms include hard starting, rough idle, loss of power, and a lit check engine light.
- Diagnosis involves checking wiring, power/ground, sensor resistance, and live data with a scan tool.
- Typical repairs range from about $150–$450 when limited to sensor replacement and minor wiring work.
- Driving short-term is usually possible, but ignoring the code can lead to more serious and expensive problems.
Vehicles Commonly Affected by P0367
P0367 can show up on almost any OBD-II vehicle, but in the field it’s especially common on certain makes and engine families. Many Honda and Acura V6 engines, Toyota and Lexus V6/V8 models, and Nissan VQ-series engines will throw this code when the cam sensor or harness ages. It’s also seen regularly on Ford and GM V6 and V8 trucks and SUVs, as well as some Hyundai and Kia four-cylinders and V6s. High-mileage engines, vehicles with oil leaks around the valve covers, and cars that see a lot of heat and stop-and-go driving tend to be more prone to cam sensor issues.
FAQ
Can I clear P0367 and keep driving if the car feels fine?
You can clear the code and see if it returns, but if the underlying issue isn’t fixed, P0367 will usually come back. If it does, you should diagnose and repair it rather than repeatedly clearing it, because the engine may eventually develop drivability problems or misfires.
Is P0367 caused by low oil or bad oil changes?
P0367 itself isn’t directly caused by low oil, but poor maintenance can contribute. Oil leaks can soak the cam sensor and wiring, and sludge buildup can affect cam timing on variable valve timing engines. Keeping oil level and quality in check helps prevent related issues.
How do I know which cam sensor is “B” on Bank 1?
On most dual overhead cam engines, “A” is the intake cam sensor and “B” is the exhaust cam sensor. Bank 1 is the side with cylinder #1. The exact location varies by engine, so checking a service manual or a reliable repair database for your year, make, and model is the safest approach.
Can a bad crankshaft sensor cause a P0367 code?
A failing crankshaft sensor usually sets its own codes, but because the ECU compares cam and crank signals, a crank sensor issue can sometimes confuse diagnosis. However, P0367 specifically points to a low signal in the cam “B” circuit, so you should focus on that sensor and its wiring first.
How long does it take to fix P0367?
If access is good and it’s just a faulty cam sensor, the repair can take 30–60 minutes. If wiring repairs, harness tracing, or timing component inspection are needed, it can stretch to several hours. A professional shop will usually diagnose and repair a typical P0367 issue in the same day.
