P0576 is a diagnostic trouble code that points to a problem in your cruise control system, specifically the “cruise control input signal low.” In plain language, your car’s computer is seeing a weak or incorrect signal from the cruise control switch or related wiring. While this code usually doesn’t stop you from driving, it can disable cruise control and sometimes indicate a deeper electrical issue. Understanding what triggers P0576, how it behaves, and how to fix it will help you avoid guesswork and unnecessary parts replacement.
What Does P0576 Mean?
P0576 is a generic OBD-II code that means the engine control module (ECM/PCM) detects a low voltage or incorrect signal from the cruise control switch circuit. The “input signal low” part tells you the computer is seeing less voltage than expected when you press the cruise buttons.
In most vehicles, the cruise control switch sends different voltages or resistances to the ECM for functions like ON, OFF, SET, RESUME, and CANCEL. If that signal drops out of range—often due to a bad switch, damaged wiring, or a poor connection—the ECM stores P0576 and usually disables cruise control as a safety precaution.
Quick Reference
- Code: P0576 – Cruise Control Input Signal Low
- System: Cruise control / body electronics
- Severity: Low to moderate (comfort and safety feature issue)
- Typical Fixes: Switch replacement, wiring repair, connector cleaning
- Driveability: Vehicle usually drives fine but cruise may not work
Real-World Example / Field Notes
In the shop, I see P0576 most often on vehicles where the owner rarely uses cruise control. One case was a mid-2000s sedan: the owner finally tried cruise on a long trip and found it dead, with the check engine light on. The switch felt “mushy,” and the steering wheel buttons were shiny and worn. Testing showed low voltage on the cruise ON wire due to corrosion at the clockspring connector. Cleaning the connector and replacing the steering wheel switch fixed the code and restored cruise control with no further issues.
Symptoms of P0576
- Cruise control inoperative – Cruise will not turn on or will not set speed.
- Check engine light on – MIL illuminated with stored code P0576.
- Cruise light not illuminating – The dash “CRUISE” indicator may never come on.
- Intermittent cruise function – Cruise works sometimes, then drops out randomly.
- Buttons not responding – ON/OFF, SET, or RESUME buttons feel dead or inconsistent.
- Multiple steering wheel button issues – Other buttons on the wheel may act up if the clockspring or wiring is involved.
- Stored related codes – Occasionally combined with other cruise or brake switch codes.
Common Causes of P0576
Most Common Causes
- Faulty cruise control switch – Worn or internally shorted steering wheel or stalk-mounted switch is the number one cause.
- Damaged wiring in steering column – Broken, pinched, or chafed wires between the switch and ECM cause low signal voltage.
- Loose or corroded connectors – Moisture, spilled drinks, or age can corrode connectors at the switch, clockspring, or under the dash.
- Defective clockspring (spiral cable) – The rotating ribbon cable in the steering wheel can lose continuity for cruise circuits.
- Incorrect aftermarket parts or wiring – Poorly installed remote starters, alarms, or steering wheel upgrades can disturb cruise wiring.
Less Common Causes
- Faulty brake pedal switch – If the brake switch is sending a constant “brake applied” signal, the ECM may disable cruise and log related codes.
- ECM/PCM internal fault – Rare, but a damaged input circuit in the engine computer can misread the cruise signal.
- Low system voltage or battery issues – Weak battery or charging problems can cause unstable reference voltage to the switch.
- Short to ground in harness – A wire rubbed through to the chassis can pull the cruise signal low.
- Water intrusion – Leaks into the dash or steering column can corrode terminals and lower signal voltage.
Diagnosis: Step-by-Step Guide
To diagnose P0576 correctly, you’ll want a basic scan tool, a digital multimeter, and ideally a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle. A factory-level scan tool that can read live data from the cruise control switch makes this much easier, but you can still do a lot with a good basic meter and patience.
- Confirm the code and record freeze frame data. Connect a scan tool, read P0576, and note engine speed, vehicle speed, and conditions when the code set. Clear the code and see if it returns quickly.
- Check cruise control operation. With the engine running, try turning cruise ON, then SET at highway speed (if safe). Note whether the dash “CRUISE” light comes on or if the system is completely dead.
- Inspect the cruise control switch. Look for worn, sticky, or damaged buttons on the steering wheel or stalk. Wiggle the switch gently while trying to activate cruise; intermittent operation often points to an internal switch problem.
- Visually inspect wiring and connectors. Remove the steering column covers if needed. Look for rubbed-through insulation, aftermarket splices, or loose connectors at the switch, clockspring, and under-dash junctions.
- Test switch power and ground. Using a multimeter, verify that the cruise switch is getting proper battery voltage and has a solid ground. If power or ground is missing, trace that circuit back to fuses or junction blocks.
- Measure cruise signal output. With the connector back-probed, check the voltage or resistance on the cruise signal wire while pressing different buttons (ON, SET, RESUME). Compare to factory specs; a consistently low or zero reading usually means a bad switch or shorted wire.
- Check clockspring continuity (if applicable). If multiple steering wheel functions are flaky (horn, audio controls, airbag light), test the clockspring circuits. A failed clockspring can drop the cruise signal low.
- Use scan tool live data. On many vehicles, you can view cruise switch status (ON/OFF, SET, CANCEL) in live data. If the ECM never sees the switch change state while you press buttons, the problem is between the switch and ECM.
- Inspect brake switch operation. Verify that the brake lights work correctly and that the brake switch data on the scan tool changes when you press and release the pedal. A stuck “brake ON” signal can interfere with cruise.
- Check for ECM issues (last resort). If power, ground, wiring, and switch all test good, and the signal at the ECM pin is correct but the ECM data never changes, you may have an internal ECM fault. This is rare and should be confirmed by a professional.
Pro tip: Lightly tap or flex the steering wheel and column plastics while monitoring cruise switch live data or voltage. If the readings jump or drop out, you likely have a loose connector, failing clockspring, or broken wire inside the column.
Possible Fixes & Repair Costs
Most P0576 repairs are straightforward once you pinpoint the fault. Common fixes include replacing the cruise control switch, repairing or replacing damaged wiring in the steering column, cleaning or tightening connectors, or replacing a faulty clockspring. In rare cases, a brake switch or ECM may be involved. Typical repair costs at a shop range from about $100–$250 for a simple switch replacement up to $300–$600 if a clockspring or significant wiring repair is needed. Costs vary by vehicle, parts availability, and labor rates in your area.
- Replace cruise control switch: Often 0.5–1.0 hour labor plus the part; many run $50–$200.
- Repair wiring/connector: Labor-heavy; usually $100–$300 depending on access and severity.
- Replace clockspring: Typically $200–$600 parts and labor, especially on newer vehicles with integrated controls.
- Replace brake pedal switch (if needed): Usually $75–$200 total.
- ECM replacement/programming (rare): Can exceed $600–$1,000 and should be a last resort.
Can I Still Drive With P0576?
Yes, in most cases you can still drive with P0576 without immediate risk to the engine or transmission. The main impact is that cruise control may not work or may be disabled. However, if the underlying cause is a broader electrical issue—like damaged wiring in the steering column or a failing clockspring—you don’t want to ignore it for long. Those same circuits can affect the airbag, horn, or other steering wheel controls, which do have safety implications.
What Happens If You Ignore P0576?
If you ignore P0576, you’ll likely lose cruise control permanently and risk worsening electrical problems in the steering column or dash. Over time, a small wiring or connector issue can spread to other circuits, leading to more warning lights, intermittent electrical faults, or even airbag and horn failures. Fixing it early is usually simpler and cheaper than waiting until multiple systems are affected.
Related Codes
- P0574 – Cruise Control System Vehicle Speed Too High
- P0573 – Brake Switch “A” Circuit High
- P0572 – Brake Switch “A” Circuit Low
- P0571 – Brake Switch “A” Circuit
- P0570 – Cruise Control Accelerate Signal
- P0569 – Cruise Control Coast Signal
- P0568 – Cruise Control Set Signal
- P0567 – Cruise Control Resume Signal
- P0566 – Cruise Control Off Signal
- P0565 – Cruise Control On Signal
Key Takeaways
- P0576 means the ECM sees a low or incorrect signal from the cruise control switch circuit.
- The most common culprits are a worn cruise switch, bad clockspring, or damaged wiring/connectors in the steering column.
- Your vehicle will usually drive normally, but cruise control may be disabled and other steering wheel functions could be at risk.
- Diagnosis involves checking power, ground, signal voltage, and live data from the cruise switch.
- Typical repairs run from about $100–$600 depending on which component failed and how hard it is to access.
Vehicles Commonly Affected by P0576
P0576 is a generic OBD-II code, so you can see it on many makes and models, but it tends to show up more often on vehicles with steering wheel-mounted cruise buttons and higher mileage. In the field, I frequently see this code on:
- GM vehicles: Chevrolet, GMC, Buick, and Cadillac trucks and SUVs with worn steering wheel switches.
- Ford and Lincoln: F-150, Explorer, and similar models where clocksprings and column wiring age out.
- Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram: Especially older minivans and trucks with high miles.
- Honda and Acura: Some models develop steering wheel switch and clockspring issues over time.
- Toyota and Lexus: Stalk-mounted cruise switches can fail or develop poor connections.
- Volkswagen and other European brands: Multi-function steering wheel controls can cause cruise input faults when they age or get wet.
FAQ
Can I clear P0576 myself and keep driving?
You can clear P0576 with a basic OBD-II scanner, and the light may stay off for a while if the fault is intermittent. However, if the underlying issue is still there, the code will return. Clearing it doesn’t fix the problem; it just resets the warning until the ECM sees the bad signal again.
Is P0576 related to my brake lights not working?
P0576 is primarily a cruise control input signal code, not a brake light code. However, the cruise system relies on the brake switch to know when to disengage. If you also have brake light or brake switch issues, they can interact with cruise control and may trigger additional related codes like P0571.
Can a bad clockspring cause P0576?
Yes, a failing clockspring is a common cause of P0576, especially if you also notice problems with the horn, airbag light, or other steering wheel buttons. The clockspring carries the cruise control signal through a flexible ribbon cable, and when it breaks or corrodes, the signal can drop low or cut out completely.
How do I know if it’s the cruise switch or the wiring?
You need to test. If the switch has proper power and ground but the signal output never changes when you press the buttons, the switch is likely bad. If the switch output looks good but the signal doesn’t reach the ECM, you’re dealing with a wiring or connector issue between the switch and the computer.
Does P0576 always mean I need a new ECM?
No, ECM failure is one of the least common causes of P0576. In most cases the problem is a worn switch, damaged wiring, or a bad clockspring. Only after you’ve verified that all external components and circuits are good should you consider ECM testing or replacement, and that’s usually best left to a professional.